My cousin-in-law sent me this link to the unaccompanied track of David Bowie and Freddy Mercury's "Under Pressure." You can read the entire remarkable story of how we came to be blessed with this song here. There is so much to say about it but the one thing that strikes me is how little we hear about genius collaborations like this being difficult and gut-wrenching. And especially with two strong (understatement) personalities like these two. I'm so glad they slogged through it.
COLLABORATION WITH: DEB, JAMES & MIKE
Every once in a while the internet magically brings together kindred sprits, and such was the case with Deb, the designer and visionary behind Cococello studio. I was so honored when Deb asked me to create her tattoo, and I've been surprised by how often the words she chose cross my mind. Here's more:
Early 2010, my husband and I found ourselves both self-employed. It was scary. It was stressful. We made the most of it by sacrificing a lot of our favorite things and the luxuries we had once believed to be necessary. It was a humbling experience.
The year I was to turn 40, I decided I wanted to do more. I had no idea what "more" meant but as if the universe was listening, I was offered the opportunity to teach design as an Assistant Professor in the Multimedia Photography & Design department at the S.I. Newhouse School of Public Communications. Teaching. Seriously, never in a million years did I ever imagine.
"Be Bold" is a phrase I share with my students, my clients and during speaking engagements for independent creatives (mainly photographers). I encourage people to be bold, be awesome and be you. It's about allowing yourself to dream, overcome fears and give yourself permission to define what success means to you.
My tattoo is a reminder for me to do the same.
Thank you to Deb; to James at Halo Tattoo in Syracuse, NY; and to photographer Mike Davis. What words to live by.
COLLABORATION WITH: RYLEE & JOY
It is always such a pleasure to collaborate with Rylee Hitchner and Joy Thigpen, two of my very favorite ladies. For the latest little project–notebooks for workshop attendees– we did a variation on what we've done in the past, this time a black notebook with striking gold decals. Joy has a few workshops lined up for this summer and fall. I hope to enroll myself one of these days. Thank you, you two!
{Photo courtesy of Rylee Hitchner Photography}
COLLABORATION WITH: KARL, GEMMA & GINA
It was such an honor to be commissioned to create this tattoo for Karl. I'd worked with Karl and Gina of Kymera Studio on this branding campaign for Cantadora Communications. I love the work they create. Here's the story from Gina:
In celebration of our 10th anniversary, my husband Karl decided to get a tattoo to commemorate the occasion. He decided on his beloved name for me, gina bella. Even though our love began 10 years ago, it has never been stronger. We absolutely love spending every moment together, which is good since we also work together! Our life is a wonderful adventure, and we look forward to celebrating many more anniversaries together - maybe we'll mark each decade with another tattoo!
Thank you to tattoo artist Gemma Pariente at Full Circle Tattoo in San Diego, and to Gina for the photos.
A Visit to Fattoria San Martino
This weekend we had a pretty glorious visit to Umbria, my first. The very impossible thing about this country is just when you think you've discovered the most beautiful place, you suddenly find another. Such was the case with Orvieto, Todi and Montepulciano. We were invited to a memorable lunch at Fattoria San Martino where Karin and Antonio have created a paradise on earth. Karin lead a tour through her garden picking wild herbs (which we sadly missed) that she then used in an lunch that highlighted each delicate flavor. Karin is a designer and artist originally from Copenhagen and her impeccable eye for beauty shines through in everything she touches, from the food to the farmhouse decor. A lot of ink has been spilled on their collective gifts. If you have the chance to pay them a visit for an overnight stay or meal, you will never forget the experience. I promise. What became clear from this weekend, after a revelatory meal at Antica Hosteria de la Valle in Todi, where the chef is from Scotland, is that the mix of a northern European precision and creativity infused with Italian spontaneity and informality is, for me, a perfect combination that I now actively seek out. So: if you know about any northern European doing awesome things in Italy, please email me. I definitely want to meet them. Many thanks to Karin, Antonio, Helene and all at the Fattoria. We're already planning our return visit.
Scenes from Spring
Yesterday was a glorious, unforgettable afternoon. I went a bit overboard at the specialty Asian market, made a rainbow summer roll feast, and invited friends over for snacks and calligraphy. Simone and 7 year-old Polly were in from Paris, Helene and Oscar came up from Montepulciano, Melissa traveled from Arizon, Stacey from Cape Cod, Julie from Canada and Betty and 2 year-old Alma from around the corner. We frolicked in the sun, picked flowers in the courtyard, Betty gave the girls neon pink tattoos and we spent a leisurely few hours with ink, pens, flowers, strawberries and lots of chatting.
Florence 11 - 20
Adding to items 1 - 10, here is the next installment of my favorite Florence spots, 11 - 20.
11. A Piedi Nudi Nel Parco is a clothing shop featuring Florence designers where everything costs four digits. If I had a bottomless bank account, this is where I'd shop.
12. Perche No gelato is in the top five. Their coffee crunch and mint are to die for.
13. Puimelli gloves has adorable designs, and end of season sales
14. Fabriano Boutique sells a favorite gift: a rainbow set with a different type of paper in every notebook.
15. Mario Volpino beyond the rhinestones are some simple suede heels and flats in bright, unusual hues not found elsewhere.
15. Eleanora shoes has a nice selection of earth tone shoes in silver, gold, gray, brown and black. On Porta Rossa, right next door to Napapijri.
And as for things money can't buy:
17. San Martino Oratory is a heartbreaking church that has historically served the poor. Inside are frescos depicting the work of the benevolent procuratori: paying for a funeral, settling a prisoners debts; giving out clothing and food. There are two donation boxes, one on the left where people can request anonymous financial assistance and another on the right where you can donate.
18. The safe in the Napapijri shop is one of three confusing experiences where you go into a very modern clothing shop to seek out beautiful secret treasures. Head in, up the stairs and towards the back where you will find a stunning 15th century safe built in to the wall.
19. In the men's clothing store Cornlinai you'll find a gorgeous little 14th-century fresco chapel to the Madonna (pictured above). Head to the right and by the dressing room.
20. Next door at Murphy & Nye you'll come upon a full wall of the remnants of a scene depicting wool production.
Florence 1 - 10
I'm having a bit of a panic attack thinking about our departure from Florence in three months. I imagine the scene of me kicking and screaming as I'm dragged away in a tangle of ribbons, pasta and gelato spoons. This will be painful.
I'm going to do my best to make a list of my 100 favorite things and experiences, in addition to updating this more comprehensive map that I'll be adding to. Here goes:
1. &Company Shop. We can't even talk about it.
2. Zeb Restaurant, where Giuseppina and her son Alberto have treated us like family.
3. Le Volpi e l'Uva, our neighborhood wine bar
4. Mark the Librarian at the British Institute
5. I Tatti. Again, we can't talk about it.
6. The Boboli Gardens, and hearing the announcement of its closing every afternoon.
7. The display of fresh fish every day at the Golden View Open Bar
8. The Orpheus Fountain at Giardino di Pal Vivarelli Colonna (pictured above)
9. The salted walnut Greek yogurt at Il Re del Gelato
10. The fettunta celebrating the new olive oil
COLLABORATION WITH: KAREN & KATE
Karen recently wrote to share her tattoo story. Nearly every tattoo represents a daily reminder of something or someone, and I love that Karen chose this simple phrase that speaks to her vocation.
My tattoo is almost healed - should I say "our" tattoo, as you did the most important part? I really love it. I finally found my vocation, and knitting "a few stitches a day" is part of my life, part of me... I love being able to express my creativity in my knitting designs. And it's so much better than the "infinity sign tattoo" that I had in mind at first. Thanks again for your amazing work, it was a pleasure to work with you - your did an amazing job by mixing different fonts for me. merci merci !!! Karen
[Tatto by Kate Davies (Toronto)]
Thank you to Karen and Kate!
Easter in Florence
Do you know about the Easter tradition of the 16th century wooden cart that is hauled by four white oxen to the Piazza del Duomo, covered in fireworks, and set alight by a flaming papier mache dove that ziplines out of the church? You don't? Well brace yourself for the scoppio del carro (explosion of the cart).
Since I've arrived Betty has told me stories of this tradition, which her family has been a part of for generations. The Soldi family is in charge of making and orchestrating the fireworks for this affair. I would ask her to tell me about it over and over again because what she was describing all seemed, frankly, ridiculous. So the Friday before Easter we went to Porta al Prato where the carro (cart) lives. The Soldi family gave me a very special glimpse of their artistry and by Sunday, rest assured, I totally got it.
The 30 foot tall, 40 ton cart lives in a space between two buildings that was once a street. Outside of this home is a marker with a quote from Dante. The Soldi family spends the week before adorning the cart with hand-crafted fireworks. The view inside the has commemorative inscriptions from 1622, the Fascist regime, and the many artisans who have restored the cart over the years, in addition to a sheet with that year's fireworks lineup. Criss crossing it all are the ignition wires for thousands of fireworks. (Yes, this was a bit terrifying). On Easter morning, four white oxen bred for this purpose are hitched to the cart and haul it through the streets to the Duomo. They deposit the cart and hang out in a nearby piazza where spectators admire their flower garlands and gold-painted hooves and horns. At the end of mass, the priest sets fire to a papier mache dove inside the church that ziplines out the door and, if all goes well, ignites the fireworks (the year of the flood, inauspiciously, it didn't). It is a spectacular show that ends in a modest flourish of three white flags unfurling at the top And then, of course, there is a Renaissance costume parade.
To date, this is my favorite Florentine tradition. How utterly remarkable to take an artifact that is so old and full of history and make it so alive and vibrant through the generations of livestock; their breeders; the Solidi family; restorers; priests; congregants; observers; parade participants. Can you imagine doing the same thing with Michaelangelo's David? "Today's we haul this marble statue out with livestock, wrap it in fireworks and set them off in a public square." There is often an air of somber fragility in the halls of the Uffizi. This ruckus tradition could not be more the opposite, or more delightful. A million thanks to Betty + Pirotecnica Soldi for such a memorable experience. (You can see a video of it in year's past here. It really doesn't do it justice).